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We’ve always said you can easily eat your way around the world in the Bay Area. So let’s begin.
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[More Dish] (with OG | Detour | PSA | Lost | ♫)
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Lele Cake, Los Gatos | [♀]
Tong [►]
The main reason for our visit is to check out the Russian dishes (chef/owner Elena Leskina is from Moscow). This bakery does serve over a dozen sweets, but we feel Lele Cake’s savory dishes actually outshine the sweet side of the menu.
If you’ve never had syrniki before, you’ll fall in love with this cottage cheese pancake (you get three per order). This version is a tad sweeter than the one at Nursel in San Carlos, but it’s served with fresh berries and vanilla custard, which explains why it’s also more expensive. The next two toasts are perfect for a light lunch. Try the prosciutto toast with pears, smoked goat cheese, and honey. The avocado toast with salted salmon and pickled radish is just as filling; the cured salmon tastes like sushi. Russian salted salmon is similar to Nordic gravlax and different from smoked salmon.
Our only issue with the Gruyere waffles with sun-dried tomatoes, soft egg, and whipped goat cheese is the lack of discernible cheese flavor (the tomatoes are lovely though). The oatmeal with caramelized peaches (or pears) and nuts is not as visually appealing or tasty as a similar dish at Anja’s in Berkeley, but we always welcome more European porridge on the menu.
Of the six desserts we sampled, the best are probably the tiramisu and panna cotta with passion fruit. The vanilla profiterole and dacquoise are fine. The potato pastry (kartoshka) does taste like chocolate truffle, so we prefer the marzipan-tasting version at Nursel. The pavlova is a little too sweet. They were out of honey cake (medovik). Note that the owner operates a restaurant next door (dinner only).
ATK (gravlax) [►]
ATK/Julia at Home (tiramisu) [►] ATK (panna cotta) [►] ATK (profiteroles) [►] ATK (pavlova) [►]Nearby options: Blossom Hill Square Shopping Center (Lele Kitchen, Mountain Mike’s Pizza), Pho Spot, San Jose (Malibu Grill & BBQ, Manley’s Donut Shop), Avanti Shopping Center (Sushi Masa, Mix Huevos, Via Mia Pizza, Round Table Pizza)
Angeline’s Louisiana Kitchen, Berkeley | [♀] [≡]
CPBA [►] Berkeley Advanced Media Institute (original chef) [►] Grub Like a Dub [►]
When Angeline’s Louisiana Kitchen opened in downtown Berkeley a year after Hurricane Katrina, it was a reflection of founding chef Brandon Dubea’s Cajun background. Some dishes such as fried oysters, oyster po’ boy, and chicken pasta are gone, but the rest of the menu looks about the same today (he left in 2016). The inside is spacious after Angeline’s expanded into the store next door in 2011.
You don’t often see ribs at a New Orleans-style restaurant, so start with chef B’s honey-braised baby back ribs with Louisiana-style bourbon BBQ sauce. At first glance this starter (six ribs) looks like it’s drowning in BBQ sauce, but it will grow on you and the meat is falling-off-the-bone tender. These ribs are also available as an entree (eight pieces) with potato salad.
Angeline’s offers three po’ boys on eight-inch rolls plus two muffuletta sandwiches. The toasted buns for the shrimp po’ boy are a little dry; the dressing (Creole mustard, mayo, and hot sauce) could be a bit more exciting. All sandwiches are served with a small house salad or potato salad. You can’t go wrong with either side; the house salad is above average and the potato salad with Creole dressing has the right amount of vinegar and heat.
Of the five entrees we sampled, the best is probably the fried catfish with hushpuppies and potato salad. You won’t go hungry because they give you four fillets and six hushpuppies. We don’t understand why catfish gets such a bum rap. We’ve never had off-tasting catfish in the Bay Area. According to America’s Test Kitchen, domestically farmed catfish is perfectly fine. And it behooves any restaurant to taste its seafood—or any protein—before serving it. If you want something other than the meat-centric jambalaya, try the wild mushroom jambalaya with sauce piquante—you won’t miss the meat. The crawfish etouffee over rice features meaty crawfish. If you like concentrated tomato flavor, try the shrimp Creole with sauce piquante over rice.
Despite its name, barbecue shrimp is a New Orleans dish that has nothing to do with barbecue or barbecue sauce. We had it once in New Orleans years ago, and if memory serves, they give customers a bib because you have to remove the head and shell yourself. You use the French bread to mop up that buttery and luxurious sauce. Angeline’s voodoo shrimp (their take on barbecue shrimp) over rice is a completely different experience. The shrimp are pealed and headless and we couldn’t detect much butter or Worcestershire sauce, its two defining ingredients. The crawfish, shrimp, and buttermilk fried chicken are all served with the same Blue Lake green beans with parmesan. While the green beans are good (even if we couldn’t taste any cheese), it would be nice if they curated different sides for these dishes or offered customers a choice.
The one side we ordered is a good one; try the sauteed Brussels sprouts with sage-garlic brown butter. Angeline’s Bananas Foster bread pudding is an interesting idea, turning Bananas Foster into bread pudding. The rum caramel sauce is not too sweet. Angeline’s pecan pie is not too sweet either; the bourbon-vanilla whipped cream is definitely more interesting than plain whipped cream. We’re glad we finally visited Angeline’s 17 years after we saw it on local TV—a new record!
ATK/Cook’s Country (shrimp po’ boys) [►] ATK/Cook’s Country (fried catfish with comeback sauce) [►] ATK/Cook’s Country (chicken sauce piquante) [►] Emeril Lagasse (BBQ shrimp) [►]
Nearby options: La Note, Gather, ZINO, Cancun Sabor Mexicano, 4 Dreams Nepali & Indian Cuisine, Wikiwiki Hawaiian BBQ, Little Plearn Thai Kitchen, Noodles Fresh, Toss Noodle Bar, Great China, Easterly-Berkeley, Zhangliang Malatang, Tasty Pot, Fish & Bird Sousaku Izakaya, Nikko Sushi, Razan’s Organic Kitchen, Cornerstone Craft Beer & Live Music, North Beach Pizza, Extreme Pizza, E-Z Stop Deli/Krispy Krunchy Chicken, Southside Station, Royal Ground Coffee, Way Station Brew, Penelope’s Coffee & Tea, Binge Coffee House, Endless Summer Sweets, Hui Lau Shan
Gumbo Social, San Francisco
CPBA [►]
To mark the 20th anniversary of Hurricane Katrina, we decided to get the dish that’s closely associated with the Gulf Coast. Gumbo is Louisiana’s official state cuisine. With gumbo in the name of this Bayview-Hunters Point restaurant, the stew of different cultures has to be good, right? Chef/owner Dontaye Ball (“Mr. Gumbo”) doesn’t claim his version is the “authentic” New Orleans recipe. He first tasted his grandmother’s gumbo at age eight, so suffice it to say he grew up eating and loving it. There’s nothing wrong with trying to faithfully recreate a classic dish, but we must give chefs the latitude to experiment and develop something that represents who they are.
Gumbo Social currently offers four types of gumbo; we ordered all of them and then tasted each one four days in a row. They are remarkably similar in terms of flavor profile and heat, so if you are a vegetarian, you can feel good knowing the vegan version (black eyed peas, hominy, and mushrooms) tastes just like the other three carnivorous options. Some are more viscous than others, which is not surprising since we’re not dealing with an automated factory. He uses okra as the thickener and you don’t see or taste it in the final product, a good thing for those who don’t like its mucilaginous texture (other chefs like to add a few pieces of okra at the end of cooking). The gumbo comes with rice and is available in two sizes.
We sampled two of the five po’ boys on the short menu (six-inch French rolls). The traditional shrimp po’ boy features fried shrimp and some kind of remoulade. While we’re not quite sold on his secret sauce, we give chef Dontaye credit for using grilled shrimp and coleslaw instead. We also tried the jackfruit po’ boy because we had a jackfruit sandwich at a vegan place in Berkeley recently. Green (unripe) jackfruit may look like pulled pork or crab, but it tastes more like artichoke hearts.
We enjoyed the corn hoecake or Johnnycake. If cornbread and pancake had a baby, it would be something like hoecake. The red beans and rice with roasted duck is tasty but on the salty side. The fried Brussels sprouts with sweet chili and apple are way too salty. The lemon pound cake is actually the iced lemon loaf cake slice mass-produced by US Foods (we suspect Starbucks serves the same thing). We imagine dine-in customers would get this dessert minus the plastic wrapper and be quite impressed (it is moist and made with real butter and lemon juice). Since we saw the original packaging, we can’t unring the bell. We always say a restaurant doesn’t have to make everything from scratch, but it would be nice if they could resell something from a local bakery.
Gumbo Social’s address is special because it was the site of Frisco Fried (2010-2022). If you come here via US 101 north, it’s very straightforward (just take the Third Street exit). It gets a bit tricky when you leave since you have to make an odd right turn at Jamestown Avenue. Our pro tip is you should look at Google Maps or Apple Maps beforehand.
ATK (chicken and sausage gumbo) [►] ATK/Cook’s Country (shrimp po’ boys) [►]
CPBA (Frisco Fried) [►]Nearby options: Let’s Eat BBQ & More, Frank Grizzly’s, Las Isletas, Tato, Las Palmas, Peking Wok, All Good Pizza, Pizza Zone N Grill, JJ Fish & Chicken, Krispy Krunchy Chicken, Butchertown Coffee
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La cucina di dio. SF
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Anja’s | Imm Thai Street FoodAnja’s, Berkeley | [♀] [≡]
After the closing of Gaumenkitzel (2011-2024), chef Anja Voth was back in the kitchen just five months later. When this much smaller space in downtown Berkeley was offered by their former landlord, Voth and her husband, Kai Flache, just couldn’t resist (they had actually looked at it before Gaumenkitzel opened). A dramatically downsized Gaumenkitzel allows the couple to carry on what they were doing with less stress. We love places like this and 3 Bottled Fish in Oakland where you can watch the chef/owner do her thing in the kitchen.
We sampled all three warm plates and would gladly order them again. The delicate fish medley (pannfisch) is a dish from Hamburg featuring fisherman Josh Churchman’s rockfish from Half Moon Bay and golden potato with a creamy mustard sauce. There’s something about her boiled potato wedges. You get a little bit of textural contrast from the garnish of diced red bell pepper and carrots. When we had this dish at Gaumenkitzel in 2022, it was local lingcod and king salmon over rice. It’s as comforting now as it was then.
The way she prepares the spatzle basil really makes the case that this egg noodle is Swabia’s answer to pasta. The combination of basil-walnut pesto, Gruyere cheese, and baby arugula sounds Italian, doesn’t it? Well, an Italian kitchen would use an Italian cheese. The smoked pork chop (Kassler) comes with more of those golden potato wedges. This loin chop may look like American ham but has more flavor.
It’s good to see another European porridge besides polenta. Don’t wait until you’re under the weather to try the warm creamy oats porridge. You’re in for a treat if you’ve only had Quaker Instant Oatmeal. The difference between Anja’s porridge and Quaker Oats is like the difference between ramen and Cup Noodles. Her mildly sweet concoction includes freshly flaked whole wheat berries, coconut, brown sugar, vanilla, and milk topped with brown sugar, walnut, and fresh fruit. We could eat this for breakfast every other day.
The orange-raisin pancake muffin is indeed “not very sweet.” The mouthfeel is more like pancake or chiffon cake. It’s delicate and more elegant than American muffins. For a light lunch, try the egg and golden potato casserole with greens, beets, and smoked salmon. The salmon is from Monterey Fish Market (already smoked?); the eggs come from Glaum Egg Ranch. If you like honey mustard, the honey-orange dressing is right up your alley. Her whole wheat roll has that unmistakable aroma of yeasted dough; she makes six sandwiches using this five-inch roll. Try the hunter’s bologna (jagdwurst) sandwich with house mustard. Because the roll is so light—especially for whole wheat bread—you’ll feel satiated but not stuffed.
Poppy seeds are widely used in parts of Europe; they may cause a false positive result in certain drug tests. Try the poppy seed and coconut streusel cake (mohnkuchen). The chocolate bundt cake (schokoladenpuffer) is full of pieces of Callebaut chocolate. She’s not making her Black Forest cake for the cafe, but you can special-order a whole cake. It was one of the highlights when we visited Gaumenkitzel.
You should pick up a can of Karamalz Classic, a non-alcoholic malt drink from Germany. It’s like root beer but less sweet. Note that Berkeley became the first city in the Bay Area to ban plastic containers for takeout starting in 2020. Click on the PSA tab above and see why that’s not a bad idea.
Anja’s is only open for breakfast and lunch (for now). The inside is cozy and snug, but you can also sit outside in the rose garden/courtyard they share with other restaurants. Hungry students can grab something to go in the morning/afternoon. We should know because we once stayed in an apartment on University Avenue. Let’s hope Anja’s lasts longer than Gaumenkitzel. The translated message on the receipt: “Thank you very much for stopping by today!” Thank you, chef Anja!
CPBA (Gaumenkitzel) [►]
Nearby options: Imm Thai Street Food, Platano, Kinda Izakaya, Berkeley Social Club, Masa Ramen Bistro, Rojbas Grill, Tender Greens, El Burro Picante, University Taqueria, Cafe Tibet, The Butcher’s Son, Rose Pizzeria, Bobby G’s Pizzeria, Red Tomato Pizza House, Cal’s Fried Chicken & Burgers, BurgerIM, Chocolaterie
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Imm Thai Street Food, Berkeley
Imm Thai Street Food, established in 2014, is clearly the busiest restaurant in this part of University Avenue in downtown Berkeley. After sampling six dishes, we understand why it’s so popular. Everything is either not spicy or mildly spicy and there’s nothing over $19 (including the half-bottle wines). The good news is the menu includes dishes we don’t see elsewhere.
Start with the garlicky baby back ribs; the accompanying sweet and sour sauce is not needed. Southeast Asian restaurants tend to prefer water spinach (ong choy/kangkung), so it’s surprising to see Chinese broccoli (gai lan) show up in dishes such as the Thai fried rice and pork leg rice (khao kha mu). The latter is inspired by Chinese cuisine and appears under kitchen specials. If you love braised pork, this dish is a must-try. Another kitchen special to try is the chicken fried flat rice noodles (khua kai). You get calamari and shrimp in addition to chicken, and the whole thing is served on a lettuce leaf and topped with scrambled eggs.
The cashew nut rice plate has a sweet/savory flavor profile we don’t normally associate with Thai food; the chili shrimp paste is mild relative to other Thai restaurants. If you’re a noodle soup aficionado, try the beef noodle soup, which consists of thin rice noodles, sliced beef, beef ball, bean sprouts, and spinach with a garnish of pork rind. Reasonably priced tasty treats near campus—this is the stuff college dreams are made of.
Nearby options: Anja’s, Platano, Kinda Izakaya, Berkeley Social Club, Masa Ramen Bistro, Rojbas Grill, Tender Greens, El Burro Picante, University Taqueria, Cafe Tibet, The Butcher’s Son, Rose Pizzeria, Bobby G’s Pizzeria, Red Tomato Pizza House, Cal’s Fried Chicken & Burgers, BurgerIM, Chocolaterie
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Artichoke Joe’sArtichoke Joe’s, San Bruno
KTVU (2025 tour) [►] Off the Bad Beaten Path (2022 tour) [►]
Until we saw it on local TV, we didn’t know there’s a card room in downtown San Bruno. It was founded by a Maltese immigrant and is still owned by the same family. Like Las Vegas casinos, the restaurant at Artichoke Joe’s Casino serves good value food to everyone (players probably get a discount). The card room has been around since 1916, making it the third-oldest in the Bay Area. Our research shows they started serving food in the 1970s. The kitchen was rebuilt and then reopened in 2025. You still order at the kitchen counter (enter the restaurant/bar from San Mateo Avenue). Other than Denny’s and hotels with 24-hour room service, there aren’t that many places where you can get hot food 24x7. The restaurant was cash-only for the longest time—they accept credit cards now.
We sampled four dishes from the Chinese menu and three from the American menu plus two desserts. If you like your eggs runny, order the wet eggs and shrimp with rice. We haven’t been keeping track, but we wager (no pun intended) Cantonese restaurants in the Bay Area serve broccoli more than Chinese broccoli (gai lan). So try the Chinese broccoli beef with rice. The meat is tender thanks to the velveting technique; the flavor is almost as good as the beef at Peony Seafood in Oakland. It just goes to show velveting is only half the battle, but did we mention this kitchen is open 24x7 (wok break from 5 to 7 am)? The roast duck noodle soup has flavorful stock and duck (house-made?). The combination porridge with pork, chicken, and preserved egg is not bad either.
If you’re looking for a lot of bang for your buck, try the catch of the day. On our visit they served roasted cod loin with butter caper sauce and mashed potatoes and broccoli. The chicken chardonnay pasta could use more mushrooms and bacon and tomatoes for a pop of color—it serves two easily (you also get pretty good garlic bread). The wine didn’t add much flavor or complexity in this case. The burrata Caprese salad uses burrata instead of mozzarella; it comes with a lot of flatbread. The American menu also features sandwiches, burgers, and one artichoke dish (artichoke pimento dip). There are a few daily specials (such as the catch of the day) for each menu, which hopefully will be updated on the Web site in the future. We’d like to make a request for artichoke soup so we don’t have to go to Duarte’s Tavern in Pescadero to get it.
Like Harry’s Hofbrau, Artichoke Joe’s offers many dessert options. Try the lemon tres leches cake, which is the classic tres leches with a substantial layer of lemon icing. We’ve had better ube cheesecake, but their version is an individual round and visually appealing. They serve several types of cheesecake and red velvet cookies. You have to be 21 or older to enter the restaurant. The long bar has an old-timey feel. They have their own parking lot, a rare thing in downtown San Bruno.
For food with a side order of unusual venue, we’ve been to Rio California next to a dozen painted ladies in Oakland, Basque Cultural Center with a pelota court in South San Francisco, Alhambra Irish House with a tenuous connection to Wyatt Earp in Redwood City, a former mile house in Brisbane, Yasukochi’s Sweet Stop inside a small market in San Francisco, a place that resembles a literal hole in the wall in San Mateo, and now a gaming facility. Have you heard of the Thai temple in Berkeley that serves Sunday brunch? And we’re sure you’re familiar with gas station chicken (since we’ve talked about it).
Nearby options: Lotus Falafel & Shawerma, A One Kitchen & Bar, Aji Ichi, Ninja Sushi & Tofu, Sushi House, K-Grill & Tofu House, Pho de Nguyen, Boiling Beijing, Mar y Mar, La Paloma, Taqueria Leon, Atlas Pizza Parlor, Grand Leader Market & Deli, RicoPan LatinPastries
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Gone to the Big Food Court in the Sky
You don’t want to end up here....
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Events and Teamwork
Check this space for special promotions from restaurants regarding Mother’s Day and other occasions. And look for career opportunities as well. Want to learn how to make fresh pasta that would make a nonna proud? Or create delectable desserts that would make anyone swoon? If you are a people person, we need you in the front of the house. They call it the hospitality industry for a reason.
Reality Check
Before anyone decides to open or work in a restaurant, read this article first.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Why no ratings for these restaurants?
If we set out to publish the usual Bay Area restaurant reviews, we would definitely include a letter grade for each (we prefer this to the star or point system) and provide more details. But our mission is to help small businesses in these pandemic times, so anything lower than an A might dissuade some potential customers, not to mention there are—or will be—nominations that we don’t have an opportunity to visit ourselves. Just know that we will not feature any establishment that we find disappointing. Other than third-party suggestions, everything we select is either A or B.
Is a YouTube video a requirement?
The short answer is no. But we love to embed a video made available by professionals such as Check, Please! Bay Area and ABC Localish in the banner window above. YouTube has made this a three-click process. Some homemade videos by customers are quite polished, and we don’t have a problem embedding or linking to them. If no one has uploaded a video about your restaurant, you might consider making one yourself. YouTube offers some basic tools to put it together. Or just take out your smartphone and shoot. We don’t expect an Oscar-winning short, but please think about what you want to show and what you want to say, if anything. Your video could be as simple as a series of photos that are probably already on your own site.
What’s the idea behind nearby options?
As the saying goes, a rising tide lifts all boats. As long as we highlight a specific restaurant, we feel we should mention others in the vicinity in order to give more places a boost. Note that the list of nearby options is curated as well. We try to include restaurants that have a decent reputation or an interesting menu at least. In short, we’ve done the homework for you.
How do we assess a kitchen’s level of competence?
Cooking is all about balance. Nothing should be too sweet, too tart, too salty, too bitter, or too spicy—some restaurants purposely ignore the last point. Nothing should be too greasy, too dry, too heavy, or too bland. And nothing should be overcooked or undercooked. If we’re talking about professional kitchens, the same dish should taste the same every time. Balance and consistency. Sounds simple, doesn’t it? If good cooking was that easy, there wouldn’t be so many bad reviews out there.
Sometimes new chefs go through what we call a kitchen-sink phase where they add so many ingredients that a dish ends up looking and tasting muddled. The way to give flavor complexity is not by piling on more ingredients; the key is to add the right ingredients. Eventually they will embrace the idea that less is more.
What do we think of food writing?
As far as restaurant reviews are concerned, we have very mixed feelings. On the one hand, we enjoy reading the likes of Patricia Unterman, Michael Bauer, and Ruth Reichl. Now professional food critics are paid to do what they do—and having their employers pick up the tab when they dine out is icing on the cake. We concede citizen reviewers do have a role to play here since the few professional critics could only cover a limited portion of eateries in the sprawling Bay Area. After we posted a small number of reviews some years ago, we realized most of the restaurants closed months later. It seemed like a waste of time and energy, a futile endeavor. For this and other reasons, we stopped posting on a certain social media site.
If cooking is an art—and no doubt some celebrity chefs think of themselves as artists—then this art form is as ephemeral as one of Christo’s projects—here today, gone tomorrow. We like to think of cooking as a mix of art and science. You can read a book as long as it’s published or digitized. You can listen to any song as long as the rights holders have made it available on the Internet. You can watch any film/TV show if it’s available for streaming. You can appreciate a painting even if you’re just studying a photo of it. But you can’t taste a dish by looking at a photo or video. Once a restaurant is gone, no one will ever have the opportunity to savor anything from that kitchen again. Without the pandemic, we never would’ve started this page. So our new focus is on the greater truth and interesting bits of information. And as the song says, accentuate the positive.
How long do we intend to keep this page active?
The restaurant industry is notorious for its high failure rate, so we’ll keep this page going indefinitely for now—with tweaks along the way, of course. When we reach the 10th anniversary in September 2031, we'll stop or keep going.
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Our Origin Story
Restaurants are like the radio stations of the hospitality industry. Before the corporate takeover of the radio market, most listeners had strong feelings toward certain local stations. In a similar fashion, most diners are devoted to their favorite restaurants. If we removed all the restaurant reviews on social media, what are we left with? Reviews of contractors and products. Not everyone feels the need to talk about music and film. But we all have an opinion about restaurants.
Many restaurants have closed since March 2020, when the Bay Area went into lockdown, and many more will shutter during these pandemic—and soon endemic—times. In order to lend a helping hand, we’ve been getting more takeout than we ever did before 2020. Perhaps some of you out there had the same idea. We had also planned to use our platform to help small restaurants in the Bay Area in 2020, but the lockdown made that rather difficult. Well, starting in September 2021, we put our 2020 plan into action by offering free promotion on our site’s prime real estate.
Women do more cooking at home than men. Yet the professional kitchen is still very much male-dominated. So we’d like to highlight places where the executive or head chef (or baker) is a woman. Look for the [♀] symbol. [≡] denotes the availability of a paper menu or printer-friendly menu on-line. Click on the Detour tab above and see why it matters. [@] means they read their emails.
Every crisis has a silver lining. Just as the pandemic has changed the way people work and the way students learn, it has also forced the restaurant industry to adapt. Places that didn’t offer takeout before had to rethink that policy. More restaurants started working with food-delivery services. And after 2020, most businesses have the takeout packaging down to a science—from cardboard-lined bag to double bagging and extra care when dealing with leak-prone items. We even saw a restaurant keeping takeout food in a warming cabinet. Al fresco dining became a means to survival; parklets became more commonplace. As the number of takeout orders surges, some restaurants need to be mindful of an old problem. Click on the Detour/PSA tabs above for details (and join our #MochiDonutsForICU campaign).
The pandemic has also given rise to ghost kitchens—some are legitimate business model and others are secretive operations associated with unscrupulous food-delivery services. See reports on KTVU ([►]) and Inside Edition ([►]).
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